We visited Cinque Terre in 2011 and it was on the girls’ top 3 favorite places, and they insisted we return. Dennis and I agreed that we must return and hike along the rugged coast of the Italian Riviera and swim in the perfect, clear blue Mediterranean water off the village of Monterosso.
So there we were, winding up and down the tight roads in hopes of reaching our destination of Bonassola. What would our next temporary home have in store for us? We could see glimpses of the Mediterranean Sea and the girls squealed in delight. They were so wound up, laughing loud and making videos even though we asked them to settle down. They just couldn’t help themselves. My sister often reminds me when I need a break from their energy, “Just be glad it’s happy noises.” Their laughter can be contagious and I chuckled as I looked out the window, not wanting to wait one more minute myself before we got there.
As we pulled into the village, we were unsure of which narrow street led to our pension, so we parked the car and walked to avoid having to back down a crooked, narrow path. The kids ran towards the ocean, I wanted to go with them but I needed to be a responsible adult and see to our lodging. Den and I lunged up the suspected road and rounded the corner to a large old mansion, all the doors and windows open. We peeked our heads into a vast dining area that didn’t look like it was being used. I was a bit concerned because I knew that breakfast was included, but this area had too many odds and ends on the tables to be serving people. A bit un-kept like it was being used for something else, not guests. A woman looking to be half Barbara Streisand and half Bette Midler interrupted my thoughts with a, “Oh, so you have arrived,” as she carried what appeared to be a grand baby in her arms. We settled up and went to find the kids.
I love, love, love walking through these little towns. I also rested in the fact that I didn’t have any planning to do while we were here. We had one goal ~ hike.
We found the kids at the end of the street and across the beach, shoes off and pants hiked up. Even though we are from the Midwest, far from any ocean, it felt a little like home. We had such fond memories of the Mediterranean from 2011.
Poor kids had to get out of the ocean and lug all their gear to the second floor before getting their swim suits on.
The sun was going down, but that didn’t stop them from going swimming–they couldn’t wait one more day!
I saw these ladies outside of church on our way to unload the car and again an hour later after we had been to the beach. The lady standing was still talking and her two friends on the beach still nodding. So cute.
When we woke up I was still curious about breakfast. We went downstairs to find that breakfast was in the garden. It was so lovely. Fresh baked tarts, breads and lemon cake. Meats, cheeses and yogurt. They even had a cappuccino machine! We ate a hearty breakfast, because this was it, our big hiking day that we had been looking forward to for the last three years.
Cinque Terre means five lands. There are five villages along the steep coast that are connected by train, trail and boat. It is all part of the Cinque Terre National Park. The charming towns have their colorful buildings in common. As you get closer, you realize that even though they are thriving tourist towns, there is no other development happening.
We did the hardest two of the four trails on our first day. We took the train to Corniglia and hiked to Vernazza for lunch. Then Vernazza to Monterosso.
We got off the train and weaved our way through the village looking for the red and white markings of the trail. The trek started out with 360 some steps. I had my mind set for hiking, I didn’t want to do steps. But there they were. The sun was starting to get on top of us, so we stopped for sun lotion a few minutes into the hike. All my focus was on Raleigh, keeping him encouraged, keeping him going. Each step he took was a step that we wouldn’t have to carry him.
He bounded up the steps like it was nothing, crawling under the rail each flight, instead of going around. I was concerned that he was needlessly spending his energy but we let him go.
Must be harvest time for grapes. I stopped whining in my mind about climbing steps before the hike started.
Raleigh did great. He had so much encouragement from strangers, people high-fiving him, asking him how old he was and looking at him in awe. I am convinced this kid is going to be a trail runner. The girls took off and we knew we wouldn’t see them until we hit Vernazza.
I kept pouring water on his head to keep him cool and refreshed, it worked!
Den did great sporting his new knee brace and alpine walking poles.
Looking down at Vernazza, the water so clear.
Lunch always tastes better when you’ve earned it with a sweaty hike.
Had to take a picture of these little hikers in the same place we took it three years ago.
This is a picture that we found in a restaurant of the mudslides of Cinque Terre, just days after we departed in 2011. We were amazed at how these people overcame such disaster and still thrive today in their little shops.
As we started our hike from Vernazza to Monterossa, this gentleman played a mean saxaphone. It was so uplifting.
This is an example of the terracing that has been taking place over the last 1000 years to turn these cliff-sides into agricultural success. Mainly grapevines and olive trees are grown. The homes are very simple.
On the second leg of our hike, the girls left us in the dust. They knew there was a fantastic beach waiting for them. An hour and forty-five minutes later we came around the mountain to see bodies on the beach. It only took moments for us to spot each other. They were waving wildly and we returned their enthusiasm. Love those girls!
When the kids got out of the ocean they placed warm rocks on their chilly skin, Raleigh followed suit as usual. I thought I would be really brave and swim about 200 yards out to these rocks, you know, to impress the kids. When I got out to them it was hard to climb on top to bask in the sun. The rocks were pokey on my feet and it was awkward trying not to fall but I did it! I waved to get everybody’s attention. They waved back but returned to their own fun, so no picture of me and my great adventure. On the swim back I was lounging easily in the salty water until a lady in a swim mask and snorkel hollered at me that there were jelly fish in the area and to be careful. I quickly turned into a gold medal Olympic swimmer! As soon as I scrambled to safety, I looked back and saw my notifier telling others. Now that I was safe on the sand, I got a good chuckle out of watching the others swim as frantically as I did. We didn’t stay much longer after that.
That evening at dinner we visited with a couple from Chicago. We enjoyed discussing international travel with them and sharing our experiences. After we said good-bye, I was disappointed that we didn’t exchange names. The next morning we came down to the garden for breakfast and there they sat! We looked at each other and started laughing! Meet our new friends, Don and Marge.
Don and Marge, if you are reading this, I hope you have been blessed with safe travels!
Getting on the train that morning we met and visited with Marcel and Rosemarie Garin. Surprisingly enough they are from the same little town of Neuchatel, Switzerland that we visited in 2011!
The rest of our day to be continued………………..























I am one of those old woman still talking….;) LOVE it all! Thanks for sharing! Oh, BTW….how was your swim top after that long swim?? 😉
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Still in place!
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Loved reading every word!! Oh what amazing adventures!!!!!!
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Happy birthday annie! Hope your having great fun! ~ Cole and Bennett
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BEAUTIFUL AND BREATHTAKING!!! Thanks for sharing your adventure!
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Delightful!! You are such a good photographer! Those picts of Ral are priceless! My how that little bean has grown! Love you all!
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